We arrived by train in Rapallo and walked to our hotel (only a two minute walk from the station). We chose the Hotel Vesuvio on the Lungomare Vittorio Veneto, and right on the water front and main road through Rapallo. After checking in and dropping our bags off, we did a little exploring (as in eat lunch and grab a cappuccino). This would be our base for five nights (giving us 4 full days to explore).
Day 1
We head to the ferry a few blocks away and begin our visit to 3 towns, the first being Santa Margherita, a charming resort town and a little larger than Rapallo. The Roman Catholic Basilica of Santa Margherita is one of the most beautiful and ornate churches I have ever seen. The buildings here and in other areas of this coast have fake windows (complete with painted sculptures and statues in order to save money on taxes). Evidently the more windows you had on the street side, the less taxes you paid. The Ligurians are very frugal (and friendly) people. Our next stop was Portofino, a beautiful ferry ride into the port. You’re immediately captivated with all the cafes, and so many choices and what if I choose the wrong one (and you can’t go wrong no matter what you choose). Then lunch, another cappuccino, gelato (you walk alot), and a new pair of Italian shoes (don’t forget to pack that extra fold up tote bag for all your extras).
Our last stop on this excursion was San Fruttuoso – not to be missed! This little cove is one of the most beautiful places I have had the privilege of visiting. There are no roads, cars or bikes here; only sun bathers, 3 small restaurants, an old Abby monastery and killer views. We set at one of the small bars drinking our mimosas and soaking in the beautiful sight of the turquoise blue water of the Mediterranean. Maybe we had more than one mimosa (?) but somehow we missed the last ferry out (note to self: check the ferry schedule when you arrive next time). Fortunately the restaurant staff offered us a ride via their little dingy boat for 40 euros and dropped us off at Camogli. From there a short 7 minute train ride back to Rapallo. Time to freshen up and head to dinner…
Day 2
Since we only took a quick walk to the train station in Camogli, we opted to go back and explore a little further. Just another beautiful seaside town with amazing views. It was also market day (which you see often in Italy) and of all things to purchase, I bought a beautiful top sheet with pink roses. As usual we had to sample the cappuccinos, gelato and pastries (did I mention you walk a lot?). We headed back to Rapallo and walked around this charming town – window shopping, then actually shopping, walking on the boardwalk area, and browsing for our next eating experience.
Day 3
Porto Venere (with 3 syllables) – another colorful town on the Italian Riviera , and a must see on my list. It was a little more complicated to get to from Rapallo, but we were up for the challenge. We had to take the train to La Spezia and then walk to the area where the ferries were located. At the time, there were not many taxis available in Italy. It was a good mile walk (well it would have been if we hadn’t got lost) to the ferry and a good opportunity to see a bit of La Spezia. Of course, we were also having to power walk so we wouldn’t miss the ferry.
Porto Venere has a lot of character and in some ways I liked it better than Portofino. There are quaint streets and alleys above the main water front area. It was so enjoyable walking to the different levels, exploring the little shops and then finding an outdoor cafe for lunch. I personally think they should include this in the towns of Cinque Terre, but then they’d have to change the name. After lunch we boarded the ferry for Riomaggiore where we connected with the train back to Rapallo.
Day 4
A nice relaxing morning in Rapallo, enjoying breakfast at the hotel and just soaking up the character of this vibrant seaside town. In the afternoon, we took the Funivia (Cable car tram) for a 1.5 mile ride to the top (of what I’m not sure) with views far enough to see Portofino. It took 7 minutes to get to the top (7 long minutes for me), but it was worth it once we reached our destination. The Sanctuary of Nostra Signora of Montallegro is stunning! It was a great place for some beautiful photos and could have been a great place for lunch had we timed it right. Rapallo was the perfect base for this get away to the Ligurian Coast…
The Ligurian coast is a must destination for your Italian bucket list. Please leave your comments and questions. I’m more than happy to help with your travels plans…
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